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How many people on this planet know that Sibenik, Croatia is famous for one reason? During the late 1800s when cities around the world began experimenting with street lighting, Sibenik became the first city to electrify with alternating current (AC) thanks to inspiration from Croatia’s native son Nikolai Tesla. The first electrified city lit by arc lamps (Which are powered by gas) was Wabash, Indiana in 1880. Most other cities on the planet used single-phase direct current (DC) powered by steam engines. But regarding the alternating current system that has become the norm for electrical grids on this planet, Sibenik became the first city to implement this system successfully. Plaques that honor the location of the Hungarian built Jaruga I exist in Krka National Park where the first two-phase hydroelectric plant was built. Jaruga II built in 1903 is still in operation and is the oldest hydroelectric plant on Earth. Learning about this one topic is one of the many things I did during my four days in these two interesting and beautiful Slavic countries.
Before diving into this adventure, there are a few regrets. Due to the trip being organized through travel agencies and a cruise ship, we had to plan every detail by the hour. Right before leaving for Europe, my cousin that lives in Croatia informed me of where my grandfather was born and raised. Near the top of the nation sits a village named Zvonece which is only 8 kilometers from Matilji. Southwest of Matilji is the beautiful coastal resort town of Opatija. To the southeast lies the third largest city in Croatia, Rijeka, which was also known as the Free State of Fiume and was an independent nation for a short period of time in the 20th Century. Rijeka is considered one of the most culturally diverse places on the planet due to being in the borderland’s region between Western and Eastern Europe. Because of its neutral, free market status through a good chunk of its history, Rijeka has been a hub for immigrants from around the world for centuries. A hybrid language of the Venetian Empire, Fiuman, is still spoken by 10,000 to 30,000 people in the city. Fiuman is an evolution of the Venetian dialect that incorporates Hungarian and German elements due to Rijeka being under Holy Roman Empire control for nine centuries and then the Hapsburg monarchy for over four centuries. Upon docking in Trieste Italy, Zvonece is 64 kilometers (About 40 miles) and two countries away (After leaving Italy, you must drive through the nation of Slovenia to get into Croatia) and is located on the beautiful Istrian Peninsula. Since our train to Venice, Italy left only two hours after landing in Trieste and these tickets were purchased before my knowledge of my grandfather’s village, I had to sacrifice this part of the trip. But when I come back to Croatia, Rijeka and Zagreb (The capital) as well as the landmark town on the Istrian Peninsula, Pula, will be the priority. My first steps into my ancestral homeland were in Dubrovnik, Croatia. Dubrovnik is located on a very narrow section of Croatia near the bottom of the nation before it transitions into Bosnia & Hercegovina and Montenegro. Dubrovnik is squeezed into a small area along the coast with mountains lingering over the town to the east. Dubrovnik in comparison to the rest of Croatia is an upscale resort town. Of the three cities I visited in Croatia, Dubrovnik was the nicest. Our ship docked in Graz which is located about two miles away from Old Town Dubrovnik. Old Town was made famous by the television show GAME OF THRONES as the stand in for King’s Landing. Here is one of my few complaints about my Slavic brethren, greed. Everything costs an extraordinary amount of money. Taking the bus into the city and reaching Old Town cost twenty Euros each for a four-mile round trip drive. Walking the walls of Dubrovnik is 35 Euros each. Being aware of these scams, we decided to enjoy the city as cheaply as possible. My partner who put faith in my limited knowledge of the Croatian language convinced me to try public transportation. For two Euros (And an early exit from the bus at the University of Dubrovnik where the highway runs along a beautiful cliff along the ocean), we were able to get to Old Town in about twenty minutes. For those interested in medieval history and have always wanted to wander around a fortress with cobblestone streets, steep stairways, historical gates, beautiful archways, and upon leaving Old Town, experiencing beautiful turquoise ocean waters that circles the town, Old Town Dubrovnik is the place for you. The various monasteries and Catholic churches that make up the skyline are stunning. The museums are in architecturally beautiful buildings scattered around the tourist shops that are located on every corner of this city. One thing that tourists must understand about Old Town is that Croatian people live inside these walls, and you must be courteous to their needs. Upon leaving Old Town to the south, there is a walkway that takes you around the fortress to a secluded beach where native Croatians in their too-tight speedos swim. Off the coast of Dubrovnik is the beautiful island of Otok Lokrum that looks close enough to be within swimming distance. Dubrovnik’s streets are confusing to walk with narrow pathways curving and some streets dead ending. Using Google Maps can get you out of a sticky corner that appears to have no exit. One of the oldest operating fountains in the world is in the main plaza and the water tastes as fresh as it probably was in the 17th Century. Outside Old Town is a beautiful fortress on a cliff named Tvrdava Lovrijenac (in Croatian). If you want to go to the top and experience the beautiful coastal views, you better be willing to part with 15 Euros per person. Before entering Old Town, I was personally on a quest to get some Rakija. Croatia is famous for its various fruit liqueurs with different names like Slivovica which is a plum spirit, Rakija which is the cherry spirit, and Medovaca which is the honey brandy. I stumbled into a bar called THE KOP where all the local Croatians who are fans of Liverpool FC drink. The bartender gave me the locals discount because I ordered Slivovica and Rakija shots in Croatian. This was the best five Euros I spent on the trip. After seeing Old Town, we decided to head back to the ship. We had a wonderful Croatian lunch at Culto before having an average but drinkable Croatian beer at the Dubrovnik Beer Company. Then, I discovered what would become my favorite part of this port stop. A museum about the experience of living in Communist Yugoslavia called the RED HISTORY MUSEUM. This was one of the Top Three Museums I have ever visited. The museum had incredible historical detail of what living day to day in Yugoslavia was like (Through displays of bedrooms, kitchens, and living rooms), what the culture was like, and unfortunately, what living under a dictator (Tito) is like (And how he “handled” anti-partisans violently). The museum was a wonderful historical experience showing a time and place that Americans would never have tolerated. While Communism has been a blight on this planet through the 20th Century, living in Yugoslavia during the Communist era was not as terrible as Stalin era Soviet Union or Pol Pot’s Cambodia. The country modernized and had a successful economy for a couple of decades and many Croatians remember this time of their lives fondly. Next on the list was Split, Croatia where we spent a couple of days. This city was a more authentic Croatian experience. On the first day, we took a tour to Krka Lakes National Park, an hour to the north and home to clear, translucent water and dozens of beautiful waterfalls. This was the location of the hydroelectric plant mentioned at the beginning of this blog that created the power for the first AC-powered city of Sibenik which is located on the ocean a few kilometers to the south. Sibenik itself has a beautiful ocean drive and more beautiful churches and monasteries mixed into what is an unimpressive, middle-class city. St. Nicolas’s Fortress which is the most famous tourist location here is on an island off the coast. Sibenik upon approach looks very similar to Old Town Dubrovnik. On the drive back and forth from Split to Krka National Park, the Croatian landscape resembles the coastal sagebrush look of San Diego. The biggest difference is San Diego is built on sandstone, so the beaches are loaded with sand. The Croatian landscape is limestone, so the beaches are filled with white rocks. Instead of using wood or metal to build fences around their property, farmers in Croatia in the rural areas use limestone. On the second day, we ate at an overpriced restaurant overlooking a bunch of the islands off the coast called Dvor where I had a wonderful Adriatic Tuna lunch, and my partner had a terrible lamb shank. After this, we spent a couple hours at the beach underneath the restaurant swimming in the shallow and quite warm for November Adriatic Sea with the islands of Brac and Solta glaring at us on the horizon. Afterwards, we decided to do a self-tour of the city. Split is broken up into areas along the water that are much wealthier, and the quality of the neighborhood declines the further from the ocean you get. Besides walking through some sketchy neighborhoods, we also saw the famous Diocletian Palace where so many of the tourists go to shop for souvenirs and experience some of the historical sights. One of the oldest farmers’ markets in the world resides along the outside of the Palace and for my own interest, we took a tour of the apartments from the Communist era which, like most art from this political era, are uniform and boring. It was spectacular. We finished the vacation off taking a bus to the Fortress of Klis which was the primary castle for most of the Croatian Kings of the medieval era and has a beautiful view on a mountainside looking down into the city of Split. Upon heading back to the ship after spending a couple of fascinating days in this city, I encountered my second regret. Split is the headquarters for taking ferries to the dozens of islands that are off the coast of the city. If another visit to Croatia does occur at some point in the future, these islands will be at the top of my list. Before moving on, I want to make a couple of points about Croatia. Americans are incredibly uninformed about this nation. On one of my tours, an American argued with our Croatian tourist guide about Soviet control over Yugoslavia. The tour guide corrected him and said that Yugoslavia was neutral and never fell behind the Iron Curtain. This is true. When Tito took over Yugoslavia after World War II, Stalin tried to assassinate him multiple times. Even though Yugoslavia did make peace with the Soviets after Khrushchev came to power, they also had a relationship with the United States. This non-aligned movement defined the nation of Yugoslavia and allowed it to become quite wealthy and stay out of violent conflicts between the two nations. To understand a country that survived between multiple empires for over thousands of years of its existence, Croatia (Hrvatska in Croatian) has had an interesting history. It has been conquered by multiple kings and empires but never fully incorporated. Croatians have been lucky to have a great deal of autonomy through their history due to the difficulty of ruling over a land that was often distant and with a wonderful coastline that allowed the people to travel to different locations easily. The Slavs did not arrive in this region until around the 6th or 7th Century. Before that, the land was part of the Western Roman Empire before the fall of that Empire and subjugated to the Goths before it became part of the Byzantine Empire. The Franks owned the land for a short time also. The Duchy and Medieval Kingdom of Croatia existed from around 800 to the early 1100s when the Croatians were Christianized away from their pagan past. Parts of Croatia have been ruled or attacked over its history. The Venetians controlled many islands along the coast over hundreds of years. The Croatians joined a pact with the Hungarians in the early 1100s that lasted until the fall of the Austrian Hungarian Empire after World War I. The Mongols raided Split and the Fortress of Klis in the 1200s before retreating due to the death of their Khan. They never went back to the Dalmatian Coast. The Ottomans took chunks of Eastern Croatia and turned it into the present-day nation of Bosnia & Hercegovina. The Ottomans never were able to conquer most of the Croatian land. Napoleon conquered the region during the Napoleonic Wars. Hitler conquered it during World War II. Italy has often possessed the Istrian Peninsula. The Holy Roman Empire ruled large parts of present-day northern Croatia for centuries. And of course, the country was Communist until the breakup of Yugoslavia in 1991. This is why it is hard to distinguish a unique Croatian culture when visiting the nation. The food has elements of German, Italian, and Hungarian. The architecture varies from Austrian to Italian. Croatia feels like a nation filled with a proud population that was put together piecemeal, one puzzle piece at a time. Even their language is put together with elements of the nations that border it. Understanding this history and these circumstances will help you appreciate everything these people have gone through. Finally, a few observations about the small nation of Montenegro. Montenegro is mostly a mountainous country with its own proud culture. Montenegrins are also Slavic and despite being located very close to Croatia and Bosnia, it has a completely different history. Montenegrins are mixed religiously but are more aligned with the Orthodox Serbs and Macedonians. After the Bulgarians were kicked out of the area, Montenegro fell under the Serbian realm as the principality of Zeta and remained part of it for over many centuries. The coastal area of Montenegro best represented by the beautiful Bay of Kotor is an incredibly scenic section of the country that was conquered by the Venetian Empire and held for centuries against Ottoman aggressors. The Ottoman Empire did take a piece of Montenegro and held it for centuries. But like parts of Northern Croatia and Eastern Italy, Montenegro was often treated as a borderland transition between east and west which gave them a lot of autonomy. There was even a short lived Kingdom of Montenegro that only lasted for eight years during the World War I era before it was incorporated into the Kingdom of Croats, Serbs and Slovenes during the post-war era. When visiting the country, there are more Macedonians and Serbs plus an interesting mix of signs in Cyrillic (For the Serbs) and Latin alphabets. Turks are a large minority in the population due to a free trade agreement signed between the countries that allows them to live in Montenegro for 180 days before being forced to return home. After staying in Turkiye for 180 days, Turks can go back to Montenegro and stay for another 180. Like Dubrovnik, Split and Sibenik, Montenegro has its own Medieval Old Town. Upon our visit and needing to get exercise, we climbed the 1000-foot incline, 1300 plus stairs to a Venetian fortress that is preserved along the mountainside (For 15 Euros each of course). Kotor is a beautiful city along the Bay that is protected by mountains on all sides and water to the north. It is a very easy place to defend due to the geography. Kotor is nicer than every Croatian town we decided to visit. If given the opportunity, I recommend visiting this small mountainous country. It is scenic and you will not regret it. Before ending this long blog, a few words about my passport issues. As mentioned in Part 1 of this series, I had issues going through customs in Germany due to many of the countries I visited not stamping my passports. Here is what happened in each one keeping in mind that only Albania stamped it. Greece: Left the Athens airport without any Greek checking my passport. Flying into Athens was like departing a domestic flight in the United States. No one ever asked for my passport in Greece. Upon returning to Greece from our Albanian day trip, the custom officials again did not check our passports. Croatia: During my four days there and two separate entries into the country, the Croatian authorities waved me through by just showing them my passport in my hand. I never opened it. Montenegro: Never was asked to show my passport. Customs let me walk right into their country with no issues. Italy: Upon my four days in Italy and two separate entries, the only time the Italian authorities looked at my passport was upon re-boarding my cruise ship in Ravenna, Italy where I also needed to go through a metal detector. The Italians did not stamp it. After exiting the ship to spend a few days in Northern Italy, no Italian authorities ever asked for my passport. San Marino: This small nation only stamps your passport if you pay them five Euros. I decided to decline that offer. Other than that, they never asked for my passport. None of these countries cared about international travelers invading their lands. All they really wanted were my American dollars. Montenegro and Albania also have very lax immigration laws. You can stay in Montenegro for three months over a six month period with no visa before the government bothers to act. In the case of Albania, you can stay a year before being forced to pursue either citizenship or be kindly asked to go back to your native country. THIS IS MY FINAL POST AFTER CHRISTMAS. HAVE A WONDERFUL HOLIDAY.
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Last week, we left off with our day on Mykonos and Delos, two of the three islands that form the famous Cyclades Island Group. On this cruise, there were no days at sea. Because of this, we got an Inside Cabin (Since we only sailed at night) and used our ship primarily for eating dinner, sleeping for the evening, taking a shower in the morning, and debarking for the next day’s adventure. The next morning, the cruise ship docked in Zakynthos on the western side of Greece in the Ionian Sea, the transition between the Mediterranean and Adriatic Seas. The Ionian Sea’s length runs west to east from the tip of Sicily to the very bottom of continental Greece and ends to the north in the strait where the heel of Italy gets closest to the Greek landmass.
Zakynthos is part of the Ionian Islands Group, one of the seven island groups resting off the coast of Greece. Zakynthos is the island that most tourists think Santorini and Mykonos are. Unlike those brown, rocky, desolate islands with million-dollar views, Zakynthos is a green, mountainous island loaded with vegetation with a wonderfully scenic downtown located along the coast. Some of the most beautiful Greek island beaches are located here including one that is centered by a shipwreck. The coast of Greece can be seen to the east. We were looking forward to touring Zakynthos. Then, our cruise ship informed us that this stop would be a tender port. Operating on a first come/first serve basis, we reached the lounge to get our tender tickets to shore at the time designated and were given the number 16. Docking in Zakynthos occurred at 9 am Greek Time. We were not able to place our feet onto the Greek soil until 1215 pm leaving us only about three and a half hours to tour the island. The boat was anchored so far off the coast that each tender took fifteen minutes to reach shore and thirty minutes to complete the round trip. This unexpected issue led us to change our plans. So, we decided to stay in the main city. Zakynthos became our shopping hub as it was about 20% cheaper than Athens and the previous islands. I was finally able to tour a wonderful Greek Orthodox Church named after the patron saint of the island, Dionysios. The church had wonderful artistic decors throughout. Not only that, but there was an Ecclesiastical Museum in the back that had beautiful, hand-written manuals created in this Sacristy dating back to the 16th Century. After experiencing the Museum of Zakynthos and the Dionysios Square out front, back to the cruise ship we went. On the fourth day, we woke up docked on another Ionian Island, Corfu. This island is the most beautiful one with immaculate blue water at the beaches, beautiful green vegetation and trees everywhere, and a few scenic mountains located on the north end of the island intermixed with little villages and a historic Old Town that is located a few miles from the port. Corfu has been the location for dozens of Hollywood films. But my wife and I decided to forsake all of this for a trip to Albania across the Ionian Sea to the north. One of the things that is ever present throughout Southern Europe is ferries. On Corfu, one of the ferry lines, Finikas, can take any customer to Saranda, Albania in thirty minutes via hydrofoil. As a person who always wanted to experience this form of travel, the journey on this boat was fantastic. A normal ferry trip to Saranda takes one hour and ten minutes. Once the hydrofoil leaves the harbor, it speeds up to 55 knots, the boat rises onto its masts, and it gives you the sensation that you are flying just above the ocean. The ferry also had more comfortable seating than most first-class airlines. Before you could say SUPERMAN, we had arrived in Saranda, Albania. Before planning this day, the only thing I knew about this area was that Saranda was called the Albanian Riviera, there are gorgeous historical ruins south of the city located about 20 kilometers away, and Albanians have a very deep attachment to the Clinton Family (US President #41). One of the things we walked past in Saranda was a statue of Hillary Clinton. To say that Saranda took our breath away would be an understatement. Only allowed five hours and ignoring the first traveler (Roma) we saw on this trip sitting on the side of the road and begging for money, we hired a Russian taxi cab driver for 20 Euros to take us to the beautiful Butrint Archaeological National Park. He gave us an in depth tour of the city, its history, showed us the beautiful olive trees and lakes scattered around, gave us a wonderful talk on the rapid growth of the city (Condos are popping up everywhere and can be bought for less than 100,000 Euros) and was incredibly fun to talk with. Another benefit of Albania which we were unaware is that the people were the nicest and friendliest on our trip BY FAR. Every person in Albania was talkative, knowledgeable, and willing to help. Once you arrive at Butrint, it is a gorgeous location located on a peninsula with a lake loaded with oyster farms to the north and a beautiful river to the south where Albanians are lined alongside the shore fishing for their dinners. The only way to cross this river is by flat wood boarded ferry pulled by ropes that can only hold one car at a time, something you would see in a King Arthur movie. The ruins in Butrint were my favorite on the trip which included a very well-preserved Medieval Castle. After taking the local transportation back to Saranda, we had one of the best meals on our trip involving more incredible coffee, calamari, grilled red fish, a beautiful olive salad, a glass of local wine, and a few sides for only 40 Euro alongside the funniest waitress that anyone would be blessed to have. After this, we walked along the Saranda Embankment to Saranda Beach where the ocean water was perfect. No person on this planet could have had a better five-hour day in a nation that most people probably could not find on a map. A few facts about my new favorite nation of Albania:
PART 4 NEXT WEEK ABOUT MY ANCESTRAL HOMELAND OF CROATIA. See you then. Despite this fourteen-day vacation being a wonderful experience, there were two days that were complete and total nightmares. The day we travelled to Europe (28 hours from leaving our bedroom in Southern California till arrival at the Athens Marriott plus ten hours of time change) and the return day (25 hours from leaving our hotel near the Rialto Bridge in Venice, Italy to my bedroom in what amounted to a 34-hour day). These were the only days on the trip that were mentally debilitating. On the plane ride back from Venice to San Diego, discovering that my body has a bizarre gluten allergy specifically to German made Hefeweizen beers (Which are fantastic) added a fun twelve hours of intestinal distress to the already irritating journey. Here is some ADVICE FOR FUTURE TRAVELERS TO DIFFERENT CONTINENTS.
If you book through a travel agency, make sure the trip only has one connecting flight. My partner and I did not contemplate how stressful the two connecting flights would be, especially if you must go through customs two additional times in two different countries. We left San Diego at 8:00 am on Monday morning and arrived in Athens, Greece around 3 pm on Tuesday. Last week, I mentioned how difficult it was to travel through Canada and Germany. My partner and I got X-Rayed three times in 24 hours (TSA Plus does not work in foreign countries) passing through the customs of both countries. When you arrive in Greece, they made no effort to check my passport. We picked up our luggage and left. It was like flying domestic in the United States except without the TSA molestation. This relaxed attitude is something that is refreshing about Southern Europe (More on this in future posts). Flying into Greece and as an amateur historian, I was expecting to be blown away by the country on first impression. The airport is located on the eastern side and a mountain must be navigated around to reach the city of Athens. It requires a 40-minute car ride to get into the city center. Greece looks dry, desolate and dirty upon landing. The Uber ride was even more depressing. Until we got within a few miles of our hotel, Greece looked like the worst part of the inner cities of the United States. Burned out and abandoned buildings, trash everywhere on and off the streets, graffiti, and a real sense of hopelessness that permeated the air including our driver who seemed like a sad and beaten man. There are homeless people in Athens, but they are a minimal presence compared to a city like Los Angeles. Athens is loaded with apartment complexes that ALL LOOK THE SAME. Like they just build the apartment one floor at a time and stack the exact same design onto the next floor. These apartments are everywhere. The uniformity of their design was related to an era in Athen’s history called “Antiparochi” when housing needed to be built rapidly for an exploding population. The problem is these apartments are everywhere and leave an ugly blight on the city. After finally arriving at our hotel, my wife and I were so exhausted that after we ate dinner, we fell asleep at 630 pm and slept until 2 am. Ate some of our leftover Greek food from dinner and passed back out at 230 am till 7 am on Wednesday. If it seems like this trip is going horribly and you are wondering when the fun begins, it only gets better from here. A couple of additional things about Athens. It reminded me of Latin American countries. While the Greeks have a long and complicated history and are often given proper credit for their philosophical ideas that led to our present-day civilization, the country just looks old. Side streets are very narrow and beat up. Stray cats are on the streets everywhere. But Athens has some wonderful things also. The area around the Acropolis is beautiful and touring those ruins should be on everyone’s bucket list. Since the ruins are located on a hill, the view of the entirety of Athens, including being able to see Mount Olympus (The home of Zeus) on a clear day gives you an understanding as to why this area was so inspirational to our ancient philosophers. Greek food is INCREDIBLE. The restaurant that was recommended to us behind our hotel was amazing (If you don’t mind smoking which is legal in all indoor buildings unless designated and having cats laying around inside the patio.). A real Greek salad does not have lettuce. Even on the islands, a Greek salad contains only these ingredients: Green/Red Peppers Olives Tomatoes Cucumbers Onions Slice of Feta on the Top coated in Olive Oil or Vinegar depending on the restaurant Public transportation is incredible and there are no stinky, drug-addicted, homeless people asking you for spare change on the bus like in Los Angeles. Bus rides were quiet with everyone minding their own business. The buses run on time. The subway system is fast and effective. It is a very efficient system run along very well-maintained highways. Greek people are not very talkative. Since Americans can’t keep their mouths shut, it isn’t very difficult to identify the “tourists” in Athens. After touring Athens Wednesday morning and reaching our cruise ship late that afternoon, my partner and I woke up docked alongside the island of Santorini. A couple of facts about this interesting island.
Once the ATV was rented, the rest of the day was magical. With my women holding onto me from behind, we toured every inch of that island over an eight-hour timeframe. From the incredible blue roofed churches and winding, curved streets of Oia, the wineries along the coast, the Akrotiri Lighthouse at the tip of the island, the red beach, an amazing lunch at a fish restaurant named Galini and the experience of driving roads that had more curves than the average mountain pass in California. One other thing to know about Greece. Hours of operation for a business are theoretical. One of the things I wanted to do was visit the Ancient City of Akrotiri. Admission was fifteen Euros, and the hours stated that, it was open till 5 pm. I arrived at 250 pm and the lady running the exhibit said they were shutting down for the day. But she had no problem taking my thirty Euros to see the site which I refused to provide. I did manage to sneak into the historical site to use the restroom and took a couple of pictures on my way out of the facility. When in Europe, restaurants, markets and other tourist attractions are often open on the whim of the owner. So, you may find yourself disappointed if you were looking forward to a particular attraction and find it closed. Day Two was on the island of Mykonos, famous for its curved, difficult to navigate, streets and famous windmills. My partner and I also ate the best Souvlaki and Gelato we have ever had in our lifetimes in Mykonos. But the highlight of this day was a cruise over to the sacred island of Delos, the historical center of the Cyclades Island group. The entire island of Delos is a UNESCO Heritage Site. Upon landing, the ruins on the island are incredible. Just walking around and experiencing this living history is an amazing experience from the Terrace of the Lions to the art history museum. There are pieces of this history lying around everywhere alongside your feet. Wondering what civilization was like on this now dead, brown and desolate island thousands of years ago fascinated me. Delos is very small but at its height, they believed as many as 30,000 people lived at this sacred site filled with ancient temples. The remnants of this civilization due to the isolated nature of this island have been well preserved and is the best example in Greece of what living in their culture was like at the height of their Empire. Part 3 will be next week. Enjoy! |
AuthorEXPERT OF SOME Archives
February 2025
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